Catching Up

The last few weeks have been pretty relaxing. The last time I wrote anything I was in Mali just after the trip to Dogon Country and I posted the pictures while staying in Ougadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso. After a few days in Ouga that were uneventful except for the amazing food that we ate (rack of lamb or goat leg anyone?) we headed for the Ghanaian border. Crossing that border had been looked forward to since the beginning of the trip: the first time that the locals would all speak English. Up until that point, the only language that most people spoke (aside from their local language) was French and my French is awful. After a while I got the hang of asking how much something cost but never was able to figure out what they would say so I would just hold out my money (or what I had hoped to pay, anyway) and let them take what they wanted. Thankfully everyone understands when you ask for a beer. Anyway, when we crossed into Ghana the whole trip took a more relaxed feel.

The first few days, including NewYear's, were spent in Mole National Park. The main attraction in Mole is the watering hole that the campground overlooks. Throughout the day anywhere between 2 and 10 elephants at a time would make their way to the watering hole and drink, swim and wrestle. Most mornings the first thing that you saw when getting out of your tent was an elephant. Not a bad way to start the day. We also did a few walking safaris to find the elephants, which always seemed like a good idea at the start but ultimately ended up with the group being charged by a bull elephant. Nothing like an enormous elephant taking 3 very fast steps toward you, cutting the distance between you down from 30 feet to 15 feet in the blink of an eye. The guide stood his ground and waved his gun at the big guy, but the rest of us backed away as slowly as possible with our hearts in our throats. Needless to say once that happens to you the desire to go on another walking safari goes away.

After Mole we headed to Kumasi, the old capital of the Ashanti people. Today it is a bustling city that is defined by its huge market and Ashanti heritage. It is the most relaxed African city I have been in yet with no hassle. Again, food took the spotlight. In Kumasi we discovered FanIce. It is a very creamy ice cream that you can buy from cooler toting bike riders that costs the equivalent of 20 cents. We are working our way towards the equator, so any time that you can grab a FanIce to cool off you buy a couple.

We then headed to the coast for 5 days in Busua. We camped on the beach and spent the day body surfing and walking to the local villages. And, you guessed it, food became the center of attention. Busua is loaded with pancake shacks, of all things. 2 Banana pancakes with melted chocolate would only cost $2 and would fill you up for awhile. Busua is also lobster country and, even though I have never liked lobster, I gave it a try again. For $5 I got 2 lobsters (small lobsters, but 2 of them none the less) and to my surprise I thoroughly enjoyed it. Life will never be the same. Or at least dinner won't be.

After the stint in Busua we went to Kakum National Park. The park is home to a canopy walkway through the top of the rain forest. The walkway is actually a series of 7 suspension bridges that is 1000 feet long and with the highest point being 130 feet high. I don't like heights but gave it a try anyway. Some moments were fun (the last 10 feet in particular) but the swaying and bouncing of the walkway (basically a ladder with a plank over it resting in a net that is suspended by rope) absolutely terrified me. I got through it, but it is too early to say whether it helped or hurt the process of getting over the irrational fear of heights that I have. Oh well.

Back at the beach now in Cape Coast. Nice place with a couple of old British Forts and a castle. At one point it was the center of the British slave trade and the town still reflects the influence that the Brits had for so many years. We are here for a few more days before heading to Accra.

The internet access has been very slow so no pictures at this point. Hopefully from Accra.